Firstly greetings to those who have taken the time to contact us, it´s good to know that people are reading this and thinking of us - thanks to Kerry, Nina, Donna, Jason, the Glass Pinyata, Daniel and Ross - to all the others following our adventures but haven´t contacted us, we know were you live!
Yesterday was tough going , we got off the bus in central Burgos and spent time looking for the trail. near the cathedral we were acosted by a smiling women that we assumed we must have met somewhere on the trail, before we could get an Hola out she had grabbed me by the sleeve and was leading me to an area near the cathedral, she told us were to leave our packs (Ray stayed with them thinking it may be a scam) and she lead into a gallery area displaying modern, installation art (nooooooo!!) and to make it worse it was spiritual art(noooo!!!!). After about 15 minutes we were being led to another display and I made a break for it but the women (Anna, kiss kiss) ran after me and kept insisting I see the rest, I kept saying I had to go she kept repeting ¨death is near¨ (ok!) I can just see it. Ruben at the Pearly gates and St Paul with his ledger ¨it´s not looking good mate, but hang on it says that you went to the Juan Corazon exibition in Burgos, God´s really into him it just might get you through!¨ (are these people insane!!)
Burgos is great for cathedrals, churches and monasteries (though the haven´t built a new one in centuries - they´re still building the current one started in 1280-too many siestas!) but people don´t seem very friendly (the camino is not well posted)and the albergues in the middle of a crappy park was closed. We walked on to the next one 5km away and that one was closed, eventuall we kept walking and found another in Tarjados. This is the only little town in Spain with only 1 bar next to 1 restaurant. At 7.30 we went for a meal. From across the road it looked closed, shutters down and no lights - we decided to go to the bar and investigate and found a side door leading to the restaurant (obviously so good that it was a secret). We were the second table in and as it filled we kept waiting, the system was that who ever sat near the kitchen was served first, and the service made Fawlty Towers look 5 star! Most people used the waiting time to clean their glasses and cutlery with napkins (not a good start)What chaos, she forgot my order 3 times, she came out with dishes spun in circles could,t work out who ordered what and headed back to the kitchen. When she explained what was on the menu she would say things like ¨and there is something else but I don´t know what it is¨, she forgot our desert and by the time we reminded her it was all gone - it kept getting worse but by the end it was hilariousetc,etc. Eventually everyone seemed to finish together and when she presented the bill everyone was pissed off as it was way overpriced, she went away and came back with a better price (but still too expensive).
Today we walked through the Meseta all day (high altitude tablelands). The Meseta is flat and brown with little tree cover, interspersed with white rocky outcrops-it´s hot and monotonous. About 9.30am we found a little albergue wirh a cool spring and a plantation of birches, a great place for a siesta and drink. When we woke a few pilgrims had arrived including Liverpool boy and the German Angel who is really the Finnish Angel. After the refreshing break we walked another 5 km to Hornillos del Camino. We foung a really good private albergue above a bar, showered did our chores and we are resting up. Tommorrow we walk to a really good albergue with a pool!!!!
The Camino is divided into three equal parts. The first part is the body/physical camino - this parts works on your physical weaknesses. The second part is called the camino of death (mental)- once your body can cope it´s the minds turn and the endless monotony of the meseta can be tough going (we are about half way through this stage). The third is the Life camino where it all comes together!!
Onwards!
Yesterday was tough going , we got off the bus in central Burgos and spent time looking for the trail. near the cathedral we were acosted by a smiling women that we assumed we must have met somewhere on the trail, before we could get an Hola out she had grabbed me by the sleeve and was leading me to an area near the cathedral, she told us were to leave our packs (Ray stayed with them thinking it may be a scam) and she lead into a gallery area displaying modern, installation art (nooooooo!!) and to make it worse it was spiritual art(noooo!!!!). After about 15 minutes we were being led to another display and I made a break for it but the women (Anna, kiss kiss) ran after me and kept insisting I see the rest, I kept saying I had to go she kept repeting ¨death is near¨ (ok!) I can just see it. Ruben at the Pearly gates and St Paul with his ledger ¨it´s not looking good mate, but hang on it says that you went to the Juan Corazon exibition in Burgos, God´s really into him it just might get you through!¨ (are these people insane!!)
Burgos is great for cathedrals, churches and monasteries (though the haven´t built a new one in centuries - they´re still building the current one started in 1280-too many siestas!) but people don´t seem very friendly (the camino is not well posted)and the albergues in the middle of a crappy park was closed. We walked on to the next one 5km away and that one was closed, eventuall we kept walking and found another in Tarjados. This is the only little town in Spain with only 1 bar next to 1 restaurant. At 7.30 we went for a meal. From across the road it looked closed, shutters down and no lights - we decided to go to the bar and investigate and found a side door leading to the restaurant (obviously so good that it was a secret). We were the second table in and as it filled we kept waiting, the system was that who ever sat near the kitchen was served first, and the service made Fawlty Towers look 5 star! Most people used the waiting time to clean their glasses and cutlery with napkins (not a good start)What chaos, she forgot my order 3 times, she came out with dishes spun in circles could,t work out who ordered what and headed back to the kitchen. When she explained what was on the menu she would say things like ¨and there is something else but I don´t know what it is¨, she forgot our desert and by the time we reminded her it was all gone - it kept getting worse but by the end it was hilariousetc,etc. Eventually everyone seemed to finish together and when she presented the bill everyone was pissed off as it was way overpriced, she went away and came back with a better price (but still too expensive).
Today we walked through the Meseta all day (high altitude tablelands). The Meseta is flat and brown with little tree cover, interspersed with white rocky outcrops-it´s hot and monotonous. About 9.30am we found a little albergue wirh a cool spring and a plantation of birches, a great place for a siesta and drink. When we woke a few pilgrims had arrived including Liverpool boy and the German Angel who is really the Finnish Angel. After the refreshing break we walked another 5 km to Hornillos del Camino. We foung a really good private albergue above a bar, showered did our chores and we are resting up. Tommorrow we walk to a really good albergue with a pool!!!!
The Camino is divided into three equal parts. The first part is the body/physical camino - this parts works on your physical weaknesses. The second part is called the camino of death (mental)- once your body can cope it´s the minds turn and the endless monotony of the meseta can be tough going (we are about half way through this stage). The third is the Life camino where it all comes together!!
Onwards!
Hi Ruben and Ray,
ReplyDeleteI've sent quite a few communications, but note that you didn't ackowledge me in your recent letter. Have you not received them? Spoke to Kerry the other day and she said she will be coming down to stay with us during the holidays, which will be great. We will probably do a ride or a walk, and maybe visit a winery.
Burgos doen' sound too appealing; with its looneys and expensive cuisine. I think we will cross that off our future itinerary. Currently reading a book called "Wartime 1939 - 1945", which deals with the war as experienced by the British people. It deals with such issues as internment, the evacuation of children fro the cities, the blitz, censorship etc. It really is a fascinationg read. Mike intends to write to you shortly.
Regards Pete
Hi Dad and Ray, Daniel here. Have read all the blog entries and is hilariously awesome and interesting. Should consider writing it up into a book. Is sounding quite rewarding despite the minor hurdles that you are required to jump throughout the adventure. I'll keep it brief.. not much is happening over here. Keep up the journey and will look forward to the next instalments. adios.
ReplyDeletebahaha
ReplyDeletethis post made me open up the bottle of licor de hierbas onena that you bought back for me from last trip. IT'S GOOD!
Two words: Crazy spics! ; )
Stay away from those nutty art-putas!
things are awesome here. Just planning california tour. Some really good shows, a house party and live radio spots.