Wednesday, September 2, 2009

greetings from Najera!


Another tough one but we finished strongly today (surfed in on a wave of endorphins). We started about 6am, grabbed a pastel de crema and a coffee at a late shutting bar - Spanish shopkeepers as a general rule don´t do early morning, they are not great with mid-morning either, you have a window of opportunity about 11 - 12 before they shut for siesta! They often don´t open again until 6-6.30, then they stay open late (bars until early hours). I´ve picked my bed, had a warm/cool shower and hung out the days washing. Just about siesta time. We are definately getting stronger (though it´s still painfull) and leaner, the flab is falling off; a couple more weeks of this and we´ll trade in the ´kegs´ for ´6 packs´!

The Rioja is gently undulating country of rocky, fertile red soils. All of the low lying country is planted with Tempranillo grapes, it´s almost harvest time; the vitners are busy cutting off the large bunches of small dark grapes growing along the bottom of the vines and throwing them onto the soil - only the top bunches with the highest sugar content are used in the making of Rioja wines (get a bottle from uncle Dan´s tonight and toast Los hermanos Australianos!

Names are not used much so far on the camino, it´s all nicknames- La Madrillena1, La Madrillena 2, The Italian with a beard, The Liverpool guy etc. The Liverpool guy invited us to his birthday party tonight. We met him crossing the Pyrenees, he was hobbling along with a bad knee, later we crossed his path and both his knee and ankle were strapped up and he ended up walking much of Navarra in thongs! He´s improving but his hips are now playing up but he´s determined to get there - Spaniards would say "tiene grandes cojones". Just to get some gender balance in (you can tell I´ve done the online taining!) let me mention the German Angel, an angelic slip of a girl that is up early every morning and powers on all day, usually staying ahead of the pack, a pocket dynamo. One more character, the bearded Italian, a man with a deceptively languid stride; after following him all day we realised that he is very experienced as he picks out the sweet spot in any trail like a virtuoso picking out notes on a keyboard (the YoYoMa of the camino), it´s virtually impossible to keep up with him. time for a nap.

Many lycra clad cyclists are joining th camino now. They get second preference on the camino. We walkers look down on them as a bunch of dilletantes. In i944 the Chinese Red Army under MaoTseTung undertook one of the great military marches from central China to north-west China, it´s called The Long March and lets face it it wouldn´t quite as impressive if it was called The Long Bike Ride! In the words of that great philosopher Jack Black "You´re not hard core unless you live hard core" Time for beer and tapas (ps 2 aussies just came in, I did the translating for them - they just walked 50km TODAY (talk about hard core !!!!!!!!!

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